Death Road!

The worlds most dangerous road is the old road between La Paz and Coroico. An average of 26 vehicles every year went down the edge, hence a new road was built in 2007. The old road is now mainly used by cyclists who want to enjoy the 64 km long and 3.600 meter (from 4800 to 1200) descent ride. The first 20 km are on a paved road where you regularly overtake other vehicles. It was a very good warm up for what was to come: the real death road – unsealed, narrow (around 2-3 m wide), cliffs with drops up to 600 m and only a few safety barriers. Eva didn’t feel 100% comfortable because of all the stones and the slipping bike. We speeded down the road but had quite some safety stops. The surrounding landscape was unreal once more. At the starting point mountains were covered in snow and it was freezing cold. Reaching the lowest point of the trip at around 1.200m above sea level rainforest-like vegetation came up including humming birds and mosquitos.

The day was a great adventure!

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Uyuni – Day 3

The night was freezing cold but again it didn’t pose a problem. We had to get up early to see the sunrise at the “Sol de Mañana” geyser basin with its boiling mud pots. Shortly before reaching the area the highest altitude of the tour was reached (4.907 m above sea level). The atmosphere at sun rise is magical. But it was quite cold while we walked among the smoky geysers. To heat up again the next stop were the hot springs nearby, where we hopped in the 38°C water. From there we headed back north in the impressing desert: its so colorful. With the clear blue sky it’s the perfect set for hour-long window-watching while driving.

Last but not least we made an extra stop at “Valles de Roca”, a huge lava field which got its today form from a earth quake long time ago. While we drove in one of the valleys, a true paradise unfolded: a valley covered with grass, a large lagoon, llamas and no one else besides us. As we found out later on, this spot is not visited by 90% of the tours – lucky us!

On the way back to Uyuni our guide stopped the car in San Cristóbal. A village which was moved from its original place because of one the biggest silver mines in the world. The church was fully reconstructed in the new place (every single stone).In the late afternoon we reached Uyuni and took the night bus to La Paz again. This time the bus took 12 hours only. Including 3 break downs (in the middle of the pitch black nowhere) and one drive-off the road. Arriving safely in La Paz we found out that a bus on the way from Uyuni to La Paz just ran off and crashed three days ago. Apparently, that happens at least once a month.

Sol de Mañana IMG_4205 IMG_4210 IMG_4225 Read more “Uyuni – Day 3”

Uyuni – Day 2

The day didn’t start as planned: another jeep was stuck in the salt desert and we had to help (never mind the temperature of -3 degrees). After about an hour of effort the situation had not changed. The tour guides decided to get help from a nearby village and we continued south west towards the colored lagoons (Red, Blue, White, Yellow and Green).

The landscape changed rapidly. The lagoons are so-called due to the different colors that characterize them. They are surrounded by volcanoes and offer surreal panorama-views. Especially, Laguna Colorada with its red color and flamingos is impressive. It was here where Niels took the best picture ever taken 😉 After a long day we arrived at our night-stay (you can´t really call it a hotel or hostel). It had walls, a roof, something like a bathroom and good food. Luckily we were prepared so it didn’t bother us much.

The rescue operation started …IMG_3883 Read more “Uyuni – Day 2”

Uyuni – Day 1

We were prepared for every possible happening. People on our way told us that it’s getting extremely cold in the salt flat area (down to minus 15 degrees). Buying a alpaca sweater, scarfs and socks as well as two extra sleeping bags and a down jacket seemed sufficient.

The most common way to get to Uyuni is by night bus which normally takes 12 hours and arrives early in the morning in Uyuni. This way the 3 days/ 2 nights tour can start the same day. In our case the bus took 16 hours and it wasn’t as comfortable as we were hoping. Psycho movies were shown until 1 am, just to start again at 6 in the morning. In between the bus stopped several times to let people out and in – our night was short.

Because of our delay of more than 2 hours we arrived at the tour agency in Uyuni 20 minutes after the tour should have started, but like most of the times in south America things go slow. The tour started with 1 hour delay and we were perfectly fine.

Our tour consisted of Alessandro and Francesco (two Italian guys) and Amy from China. Alessandro is a doctor specialized in viruses and bacteria’s, therefore he was very curious about everything we touched and reminded us of disinfecting our hands all the time (its because he is permanently working on projects in Africa for the last 20 years). Francesco is also a traveler and Bolivia is his last stop before going back home to Italy. Amy is working for Huawei and now Niels knows how his mobile (a Huawei) is pronounced correctly (something like Wawi 😉 After 2 hours we found out that our guide had been an English teacher for several years and offered us to do the tour in English (normally it costs a fortune to get an English speaking guide).

The tour started with the “Cementerio de Trenes”, which was followed by the worlds largest salt flat – Uyuni (12.106 sq km at 3.653m height). On the one hand it’s an enormous white areal of nothingness. On the other hand it offers the perfect setting for crazy surreal pictures. Before heading to our night stay in a salt hotel we stopped at the Isla Incahuasi, which is a hill in the middle of the salt flat covered with cactuses and offers spectacular views of the Salt Flat.

The night was pretty cold but with our two sleeping bags we were perfectly prepared. In the morning both of us were super rested – unlike the others of our group.

Day 2 see the next post 🙂

Abandoned trains made the famous train cemetery 3 km outside of UyuniIMG_3628 IMG_3637 IMG_3642

Perfect surrounding for some crazy Pics IMG_2206 IMG_3732 IMG_3736 IMG_3751IMG_3765IMG_3840 IMG_3772Panorama11

Holes in the salt with salt crystals forming in the brineIMG_3779

Isla Incahuasi with llamas and many cactusesIMG_3795 IMG_3800 Panorama12

Nothingness after the salt flat

Our salt hotel for the nightIMG_3851 Panorama13

Lake Titikaka and Copacabana

Crossing Lake Titikaka, Niels and I underwent our first not 100% legal “border crossing”. Lake Titikaka is the world´s largest high-altitude lake at 3.800m. It is set between Peru and Bolivia. Therefore, the police controls the persons going from one side to the other regardless the fact that you stay in Bolivia (at first). Having no passports with us, the guide found an easy solution to the problem: just stay on the bus as the police normally doesn’t inspect it (normally – that’s what he said, believe me we nearly wetted our pants). Luckily it worked out fine – otherwise you would have to send some care packages to the Bolivian prison. Copacabana is the main city on the Bolivian side of the lake. After walking around and having lunch we took a boat to Isla del Sol. The island has some Inca ruins, great views of the surrounding and – of course – a lot of sun. Unfortunately, we just got a decent overview of the island and its definitely a place worth spending 1 to 2 full days.

Thats a bus on one of the rafts – our way of crossing the lake. IMG_3399

View from the harbour of CopacabanaPanorama01

View while going to the island of sunPanorama03

High altitude!IMG_3408

“Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana”Panorama09

People buy this overpriced stuff at the church entrance and believe they will be able to buy the big version next year. I wonder if it works… IMG_3431

Eva immediately made friends with this _horse_!IMG_3494

Traditional dressed woman getting drinking water from the well IMG_3509

View from the top of the sun island (next three pics)IMG_3521 IMG_3523Panorama05

On the way to the floating islands / back to Copacabana (next two)IMG_3559 IMG_3568

Copy of the floating islands on the bolivian side of lake Titikaka (don’t go there!). They are not real, only some pontoon with planks (next three pics)Panorama07IMG_3587 IMG_3598 IMG_3599

Dinner time!IMG_3610

Highest Seat of Government in the World: La Paz

We were shocked (!) while driving from the airport to the city center of La Paz. Everything looked shady and even the area our hostel was located at (it was supposed to be in a good neighborhood) looked not the way we hoped. We didn’t plan to spend too much time in the city anyways. But after walking around and finding some nice restaurants, cafés and plazas we liked the city more. Soon a place called “café del mundo” became our second home.

The altitude of the city gladly didn’t effect us at all (La Paz is situated between 3200 and 4100 meters, which makes it the worlds highest seat of government). Only the very low humidity dried out our lips and skin as well as made us drink 4-5 liters of water a day easily.

In La Paz we went to a place called “witch market” where llama fetuses and other things used in traditional Andean rituals are sold. The funny thing in Bolivia is that’s its cheaper to rent a taxi for a sightseeing tour than using the Hop-on-Hop-off Bus. Therefore, we took a taxi and went through all the sights (see Pics). On day 2 we went to the Titikaka lake (post will follow). The next day our journey took us to Uyuni (post follows). After coming back from our Uyuni trip we needed a bit more luxury and got a really nice hotel (called Naira) in the best area.

Two panoramas of La Paz01_Panorama 05_Panorama

llama fetuses at the witch market IMG_2174

Our” Cafe Del Mundo ” IMG_2176

We tried very hard (sitting there 4 hrs) but never made it above 20 € (9 Bolivians = ~1 €)IMG_2189 IMG_2418[1]

Our first hotel! Sexy time!IMG_3365

The second hotel was a lot diffrentIMG_2353

For our electricians: thats how they do it – everywhere!IMG_4417

Some impressions of the government district03_PanoramaIMG_4481 IMG_4484 IMG_4485